Posts Tagged ‘electric’
See all our Electric Engines in Motion with authentic Soundtrack. Model Train are a series of videos about my families Maerklin Model Train in Gauge H0. The Track Layout and Technical aspects are on my dads side. The Landscape and Lighting are on my side.
- Features two locomotives one powered and one unpowered GP38-2 low nose, four cars and scenic extras
- 74″ x 38″ oval layout with patented power-loc track features fast and easy setup
- Scenic extras include stock pen with cows and pigs, buildings, trees, vehicles, figures and more
- Now featuring hobby-quality CF1 knuckle couplers, cars stay coupled – virtually eliminating derailments
- No rail joiners to line up or bend, produces perfect electrical contact- clicks together and stays connected even on carpet
Life Like Diesel Thunder Electric Train Set
Product Description
Electric trains were high on any boy’s Christmas list during the Fifties and Sixties and Sears sold the finest. This neat book contains full-sized authorized reproductions of every catalog page of toy trains sold by Sears from 1950 through 1969. Organized by year, the best and rarest are illustrated: Lionel, Marx, American Flyer, Tyco and Revell trains and accessories. in all gauges. Includes all the original selling prices too! “Must Have” for any collector…. More >>
For those interested in model toys, particularly that of the Model Train, one thing they will inevitably come across when commencing their hobby is the issue of how to wire their railway.
One of the most popular ways to do this is through the device called common rail wiring, the basic concept of which lies in always insulating the same piece of rail, while leaving the other one still connected. Sketch and/or draw a layout of your system that shows the dual tracks while marking the outer and inner rails as “plus” and “minus” respectively. In the example of an oval track layout, this means that the outer rail will always be positive no matter where it goes, and the inner rail will therefore also always be negative. The benefit of this is, once you have insulated the inside rail on every siding (even those controlled via on-off switches), the outer rail therefore becomes akin to common ground, while the inner rail resembles hot switched lead. This is why this method has become known as “common” rail wiring for the model train. Two different power packs are recommended for this system, both insulated from each other (such as in the cases where an oval is inside an oval), as they can then have the ability to control different areas of the layout in the same instances. Both packs need at least one wire to be attached to the common rail, with a second to go to either the insulated rail of the oval or to the sidings in order to be controlled.
The common rail system is a very popular one, primarily because it enables the system to pass on control from one of the packs to the other, with the model train on the track thus gaining power from the right side of the front truck at the same time as it is getting it from the left side of the rear truck. Minus the common rail, the model train would otherwise regard the insulated joint as a malfunctioning switch and would thus then just stall on the track. Just be prepared for the possibility of the model toys surging unexpectedly fast when crossing over the joint!
One last point – remember to double insulate on the section of the track where you require the train to reverse back on itself – this means that the positive rail will suddenly run smack bang into a negative rail, and thus an insulating gap and plastic joiner are essential here. A DPDT (double-pole, double-throw) switch will be required for this operation.
Aside from this, however, the common rail wiring should be the best solution for your model train toys system.
Joe Kanooga is a father of two kids, a successful business owner and the author of numerous articles about model toys. Click here to download a free model train guidebook filled with hobby tips, ideas and information.
Derailments of model trains toys can be a frustrating problem to figure out, especially if they happen in the same place, but not during every pass. In some cases, the derailment is a one-time event caused by dust or dirt on the track. Clean the area and replace the cars and engine back on the track, allowing it to run a few times. If the derailment doesn’t happen again, there is probably no need to trace the cause of the derailment.
In the case of a derailment that continues to occur, especially in the same place, you need to figure out the root cause of the problem. There are several things to consider, such as changed scenery or new or different cars or engines. Try to determine where the problem originates as it might not be at the site of derailment.
Consider the scenery in the area of the derailment. Look for very small pieces of scenery that may be stuck in the track of your Model Trains. Carefully inspect the track to ensure that all the nails are hammered down all the way and be sure that the nails have not worked their way loose. Be sure that small tools are not left on the tracks.
Change cars to see if one specific car is the cause of the derailment. Run the engine by itself to see if it derails. If you can figure out which car keeps derailing, inspect the car thoroughly. Look at the wheels and couplers as these can be the culprit. Couplers (magnetic or regular) that are mounted too low can cause derailments by rubbing against the tracks.
Be sure that the wheels are set correctly for the width of the track. Shimming or replacing wheels or couplers would be the solution to prevent this car from derailing in the future. A shim placed correctly may improve the height ratio, keeping the cars from derailing.
The wheels might be a cause of derailment. Check to be sure that the wheels are clean. If the wheels are dirty, clean the dirt with a small cloth. Do not overlook the dirt on the wheels as it can blend into the colors on the flange.
To ensure which car is causing the problem, check the car in front of and behind the car that derails. Some cars have longer coupler housings than others, so you may have to adjust the coupler to tuck it a bit further under the derailing car.
Check the cars for correct assembly. The body needs to be correctly centered on the frame and there can’t be anything rubbing against the wheels. The wheels should move freely by hand and the couplers should slide back and forth easily.
If the engine seems to be the derailing problem, inspect it carefully. Turn the engine upside down and examine the wheels, the truck housing, and the coupler. A bit of filing of the truck housing or shims on the wheels or coupler could fix the problem. You may have to try several things before the model trains run correctly again.
Another item to check is the curve of the tracks. If the curve is too tight, a derailment can occur. Generally, a six axle engine requires a 22” curve radius. If the train derails around a curve that is the correct radius, look several feet before the curve, checking for a small gap in the rails. Inspect for nails that may be loose or not pushed all the way down. Check the track for levelness. A small dip can cause derailments. Also check under the track to ensure there isn’t any debris or dirt that is causing the derailment. Transitioning from one model trains table to another needs to be smooth to prevent derailment. Likewise, transitioning to a grade in the track needs to be smooth. A slight variation between tables or the grade could be enough to cause the trains to jump the rail. You may need to shim the table legs to level the tables.
Dips and bumps can cause derailments. A common cause for dips and bumps is a loose or partially driven nail. Check carefully to be sure that a nail hasn’t come loose and worked its way under the track. Check to be sure the nails are through the wood and not the tracks rails.
A National Model Railroad Association (NMRA) track gage can be used to ensure that the rails are the correct space apart. Incorrect rail spacing has been known to cause derailment. In some cases, you may need to replace the track or bend the switch point clearances to allow the wheels to pass by without rubbing and derailing.
If you have tried several solutions but your trains still derail, trace it backwards from the point of derailment. Inspect all connections, rail joiners, rails, and scenery for failures, looseness, or dirt and debris. You may have to replace items to correct the derailment. Eventually, you will find the problem and once again be able to enjoy smooth performance from your trains toys.
Joe Kanooga is a father of two kids, a successful business owner and the author of numerous articles about model trains toys. Click here to download a free trains toys guidebook filled with hobby tips, ideas and information.
